Chapter 13: What Vikings Did In Church...


Once, my second wife and I were on a trip deep in rural Norway.  On our way to visit some famous "stave churches."  (These are a special type of church the Vikings built back in the Tenth Century or so when they were just being converted to Christianity).  A few still stand to this day: they are all wood-and-timber - and feature many of the same architectural "elements" - ribs, trusses, cross braces, etc. - that the famed Viking 'dragon boats" did - since they were in fact, built by the same shipwright/farmers of that era...  

As we all assembled in the Nave, the tour guide invited us to look around at all the splendid hand-carving everywhere - most Norsemen back then could put a Swiss woodcarver to shame - and every square inch of exposed wood was covered with intricate Norse designs, and religious and floral motifs.  

The guide invited us to look up into the gable area overhead: there where the huge rafters soared up high above us, were more carvings: large human heads, very realistically carved, terminated the exposed ends of all the beams.  Twelve in all - the Twelve Apostles, in fact.  He invited our further scrutiny of the head on the furthest back timber in the row: Saint Andrew or somebody - one or another of them, but can't remember which one was peering down at us from the gloom...  

But what stood out on close scrutiny was fact St. Andrew had a large black patch - like the classic Pirate's Eye Patch - carved over one eye!  This feature rather "clashed" with the (generally) woeful, doleful, upcast eyes and faces of Saints, such as most of us know them.  St. Andrew here had a decidedly roguish appearance about him.  On query, we were reminded that back then, the Viking's main deity, Wodin, was celebrated in song and story for fact he only had one eye - his pet falcon as I recall having plucked the other out in some fracas or another one time (the Vikings, as some know, "played hardball" most of the time, as it were, and really knew how to live! LOL!).  

Anyhow, despite the careful supervision of the proselytizing monks and priests who had come amongst them to banish "Paganism" from their lives forever, the Stave Church makers still managed to sneak in a sop to their own past now and then, as the guide noted... and one-eyed St. Andrew yet keeps a sort of "Wodinish" watch on high over his followers down below in a far-off Stave Church in rural Norway...  

(True story)

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